We landed in Kauai at 11pm, welcomed by the thick and cloying tropical air. In some ways it was a kind respite from the soaking cold of the Pacific Northwest. We had rented a car with camping gear for our time on the island, but that night we were too exhausted to set up the tent. By the light of our phones, we cracked the backseats flat and settled in to a muggy night to the chorus of evening mosquitoes ...

... which changed to an orchestra of roosters when dawn arrived. Throw in some backing tracks in the form of jet engines from the airport across the road, and soon we were on the road, ready to hit up whatever sandy shoreline whose lulling waves could drown and suffocate those goddamn chickens.

Our trip would be marked by these salty snorkelling sojourns, weaving in and out of coral outcrops and admiring the watery world from the perch of where sea meets sky. After getting cooked and broiled in the afternoon sun, we'd retreat to a secluded campsite and make our instant noodles with a patina of salt still fresh on our skin. With a full day of activity and full belly of processed food and MSG, we slept very well to the seaborne lullabies.

***

On the second day in Kauai, we camped under the shadows of the Kalalau mountains, where we'd start the following day on our longest hike. The trail was reminiscent of the coastline along Royal National Park back home, with the added thrill of making knee-deep river crossings and then sinking ankle-deep in glomps of red clay. As we entered deeper into its valleys, we left behind the imposing cliffs with their steep flutes jack-knifing straight into the frothing ocean, and penetrated into a jungle gloom promising many mosquito bites. At the end of the hike we were rewarded with a dip in the Hanakipi'ai Falls. The water was bracing, and as we gradually tried to get under the pounding cascade, we had to swim backwards since the mist made it hard to see. I was afraid that some weathered rock from up high would come hurtling down and crack our coconuts, but fortunately the only brain damage I got was from the force of the water itself.

On the Kalalau Trail

Would you rather: sweaty clothes, or mosquito bites?

Looking down into Hanakapi'ai Beach

The first of many stream crossings

First glimpse of the Hanakapi'ai Falls

Cold water!

The following day we drove up to Waimea Canyon on the south side of the island, and the realm on the inland side of the Na Pali cliffs. Hopscotching our way up each successive lookout, the luminous green foliage would give out to a dry and rusty soil, occasionally transfiguring into mud. All this mud that we tracked in to our rental car only added to the dank miasma of salt and sweat that was already coalescing. The Canyon commanded a respect for this oldest of the Hawaiian islands, whose grizzled disposition was reflected in the angry alternating hues of black and red volcanic rock.

Waipo'o Falls

Spot the helicopter

The highlight of the canyon for me was the Awa'awapuhi Trail, which follows the sharp ridgeline down the western coast to get a top-down view of the Kalalau Valley. Creeping down the knife-edge induced some vertigo, especially a sketchy section towards the very end of the trail that required hopping along some rocks, with a sharp drop on either side. Mind you, this was already after any traction from my shoes had been obliterated by the greasy mud. The prize at the end was well worth it, however, even if vista induced knee-wobbles that made the return trip a bigger liability.

What a view

Testing my fear of heights

Waiting for the clouds to clear

We wrapped up the day at one of the more populated beaches at Poipu, where we had our first glimpse of sea turtles and monk seals beaching in the sand, and the distant spouts and acrobatics of whales along the horizon. It set us up fora chill final day in Kauai, where we kayaked for an hour along the Wailua River for another slip-n-slide trail to the Uluwehi Falls. By this point, we'd gained enough river legs to navigate the water crossings more confidently, although slipping in to the pool with the mossy rocks hidden under the fretting surface was still an ordeal. The pressure from the waterfall was much more tolerable, and it also acted as a bonus massage after the tiring paddle against the river's current. I spent some time behind the waterfall, with my back clinging to the cold slick black rock, hoping again that loose rock wouldn't tumble on top of me. I swam underneath the falls several times just to get my adrenaline kick, but the biggest hazard was probably scraping my shins against the submerged rocks every time I dove beneath the pummelling torrent.

On a hike along the golf course to Shipwreck Beach

Our base camp for the first half of our stay on the Big Island was in Hilo, on its East Coast. We lolled around on the first day visiting a bustling farmer's market, slurping on coconuts, gorging on loco moco, and cruising up the scenic highway for a few hours to the Waipio Valley. The gem of the day was visiting Pohoiki Bay late into the day. The sand hear was black and gravelly, and unrelentingly painful to walk on. But the combination of rain and tide had formed these pools a few steps inland from the shore. Together with thermal vents connected to the volcanic activity on the island, it created hot springs where people soaked while watching the sunset. I didn't think that it would be pleasant for a dip when the ambient air was already hot, but I changed my mind after a lazy dunk. It was enough to soothe our tired legs from all the previous days' hiking, and prepared us for pigging out on laulau and lomi salmon that night.

Pololu Valley

A dip in the hot springs

We set aside a full day to explore Volcanoes National Park, but we were disappointed that there was no flaming volcanic activity--we'd missed it by three days. We had to settle for some sulphur vents and hikes along the desolate landscape, the black rock in the crater acting like one big baking tray that was concentrating the sun's heat. A lot of the hot day was spent in the car, zigzagging from each trailhead to gawk at lava tubes, decrepit craters, and petroglyphs.

Looking into Kilauea

Inside Thurston Lava Tubes

With just barely enough fuel in the tank, we hooked back to the Saddle Road that traverses the width of the island to visit the Mauna Kea observatory. Kudos to our little hybrid rental--at some points the grade was so steep and our fuel so low that I didn't think she would make it. We arrived in time to hike a little hill where we could see the sunset, although the winds were so ferocious that we were being sprayed with volcanic debris into our eyes and camera lenses. You could even feel the force of that demented wind as we drove away, threatening to knock our car straight off the asphalt.

Atop Sunset Hill on Mauna Kea Observatory

Swimming with sea turtles in Punalu'u Black Sand Beach

The remainder of the trip was spent caking ourselves in sunscreen and spending more time swimming around beaches. I felt grateful to be able to swim with sea turtles at Punalu'u Black Sand Beach, and then afterwards went for a hike and a dip at Papakolea Green Sand Beach. (I didn't really think the sand was green at all, although I am colour blind so I'm not much of an authority.) We also did the Captain Cook Trail down to Kealakekua Bay, which had hands-down the best snorkeling experience we got to do. We had also booked an evening trip on a boat to snorkel with manta rays under UV light, but sadly this was cancelled due to rough seas. Just as well though, as the mild dehydration was knocking me down. I needed an unlimited supply of shaved ice and fresh poke to push me through the rest of the trip. Or maybe some 100% Kona coffee, but man that shit is expensive.

Papakolea Green Sand Beach